Sunday, May 21, 2017

The Travels of Ibn Battutah (2003)

In his Great Voyages Lecture "Traveler's Tips from the 14th Century: The Detours of Ibn Battutah" (December 4th, 2013), Professor Paul Cobb offers his audience these five tips to travel: Keep an Open Mind, Go to School, Bring Snacks, Plan on Changing Plans and Make Friends

Despite of their ordinariness, we must also do these tips justice by recognizing their source of inspiration, that is Ibn Battutah (1304~1368 or 1369), a medieval traveler from the 14th century and a voice from the less-known Arabic world, to compared with his Venetian contemporary, Marco Polo (1254~1324). 

Ibn Battutah is only the family name of our traveler. His full name is Shams al-Din Abu Abdallah Muhammad ibn Abdallah ibn Muhammad ibn Ibrahim  Ibn Battutah al-Lawati al-Tanji (p. viii, "Foreword"):

    Shams al-Din               Abu Abdallah                      Muhammad 
(the Sun of Religion)   (Father of Abdallah)  (the traveler's personal name)

    ibn Abdallah        ibn Muhammad         ibn Ibrahim          ibn Battutah    
(son of Abdallah) (son of Muhammad)  (son of Ibrahim)  (son of Battutah, the founder)

        al-Lawati                                 al-Tanji.
(of the tribe of Lawatah)        (of the place Tanjah).


In short, our traveler is Muhammad from the family of Battutah based in Tanjah. Ethnically, he is not Arabic but of the tribe Lawatah, a clan of Berber, yet culturally, he is a serious Arab Muslim, working as qadi or judge of Islamic laws.  

Muhammad Ibn Battutah (referred below as MIB) was 21 years old when he left his hometown Tangier in modern-day Morocco in 1325, and returned almost after thirty years later in 1354 an old man, covering ground as wide as 75,000 miles in Africa, Europe and Asia. His fan-editor Tim Mackintosh-Smith dubs his travels "was, and still probably is, the biggest travel book ever written" (p. ix, "Foreword"). 

Why did MIB travel? 

To become a Hajj was his primary motive. Besides, 'travel in search of knowledge' was also necessary for serious scholars like him. A third and slightly more supernatural reason occurred in the middle of his travel. One of the saints he met in the journeys predicted he should meet more saints in far-away places and shall convey his greetings to these saints. Thus his itinerary lengthened. 

















What did MIB see? Or rather, what did I see through the eyes of MIB?

MIB was a teacher of the laws of Muslims. Everywhere he went, he visited the shaikhs, amirs, viziers, holy seers, mosques and courts. It was impressive how he was able to fund all his travels by alms and gifts, even in the most dire situations! 

Of course, as the editor Tim Mackintosh-Smith also notes according to historical evidences, MIB might have exaggerated some details when he dictated his travels. However, that alms were to be given to brethren in need is also a truth in Koran; besides, he himself also really knew how to promote his services to the local. Many kings loved the stories of his travels! Without the help of diaspora Muslim communities and the trust of infidel kings, how MIB could practically realize such travels would be shard to imagine. 

In relation, whether the local were believers was often one of the first things MIB always noted. "Infidels" fills the text. For example, after he finally reached China, he was certainly impressed by the wealth of the country, yet was also "deeply depressed by the prevalence of infidelity" (p. 268, "China"). He felt so offended that he'd rather stay inside his lodge. 


When women did not cover themselves, they offended him; when men allowed their women to converse with another men, they offended him. While I do not share all his sentiments, I certainly am with him at some unbelievable anecdotes. Hence, my "OMG!" also fills the blanks of the page! 

Examples:

A sultan judged thieves severely. One day a man picked up a mango that had fallen in the orchard; the sultan saw it and ordered the man to be cut in halves "and each half was put on a cross on the right and on the left of the road...as an example to the beholders" (p. 227, "South India"). "OMG." 

People on the Maldives ate coco-palms and fish...that "have an amazing and unparalleled effect in sexual intercourse...I had there myself four wives, and concubines as well, and I used to visit all of them every day and pass the night with the wife whose turn it was, and this I continued to do the whole year and a half that I was there" (p. 232, "The Maldives"). "OMG!!!" 

Along the Niger river in Africa, the people ate women, and it was reported that "they used to say that  the best parts of the flesh of human females were the palm of the hand and the breast" (p. 292, "The Country of the Blacks"). "OMG". 

Certainly, our world, this planet, can never fail to open our eyes whenever and where-ever we travel. MIB and travelers from other times, including those from our time, continue to challenge us with their stories. Whether they lie is not important at all. The key here is to realize there is nothing impossible or unimaginable except for those we as a society has agreed upon. Always keep an open mind. I follow that rule. 

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Paiwan Every Day 668: pai

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