Gateway: Eight Rukai Villages in Wutai, Pingtung

Gateway project completed 4.56% (34 out of 746).

746 is the number of indigenous villages officially ratified by Council of Indigenous Peoples (CIP) from 2010 unil 2015. Entrances is a personal project by which I hope to visit every village on the ratification list. 

Wutai is the only non-Paiwan dominant township in Pingtung Taiwan. The eight indigenous villages under six tsuns (administration unit) are home to Rukai, a group that was once considered a sub-tribe of Paiwan in the 19th century. According to CIP ratification list, there are totally 1,046 Rukai families and 3,448 residents in these villages, equivalent to roughly 26% of the total Rukai population (13,340) on the island. 

(Photo: Monument at the entrance to Rinari)

Among the eight Rukai villages in Wutai, three were removed and relocated by post-Morakot permanent housing programs. In August 2009, 

Typhoon Morakot hit Taiwan, taking 673 lives and leaving 26 missing. For survivors of these three Rukai villages, future afterwards was not less painful because their houses and properties were either buried under debris or deemed completely inhospitable. They were therefore not given any choice but to be removed to Rinari and Changjhih Lily, two permanent housing bases. 

The base of Rinari is shared by  two Paiwan villages (Makazayazaya and Tavalan) and one Rukai village (Kucapungane), while Changjhih Lily accommodates Rukai people from both Wutai and Majia townships. All houses in the base were built by the same model and subject to the same rules. Residents own the house they live in but not the land upon which their house was built. 

Post-Morakot relocation and permanent housing policies have their critics. Sarcastically, contrary to the title 'Permanent Housing', these houses are not meant to last more than thirty years due to building materials. Apart from other inconveniences such as no place to farm or garden or sense of alienation, residents still need to fight for a real permanent home. 

(Photo: Base of Changjhih Lily Permanent Housing)

Kinulane (204 residents, Altitude: 61.1 m) 

Adiri (351 residents, Altitude: 59.9 m) 

Kinulane and Adiri were originally two small villages at the end of Provincial Highway 24. Typhoon Morakot and other fits of pouring rain since then have devastated the highway, leaving both villages currently out of reach. There is now a road block at 44.5 km of Provincial Highway 24, and no reconstruction timeline has been proposed yet. 

It remains to see whether Changjhih Lily will become a real new home for the Rukai. Readjustment is obviously not going to be easy due at least to the change of altitude is huge. Mountain dwellers are displaced and live now like plains settlers. How can that be easy? 

(Photo: Monument at the entrance to Kucapungane in Rinari)

Kucapungane (496 residents, Altitude: 225.4 m)

Rukai people of Kucapungane shared a similar fate as their village by South Ailiao River was swept away by the torrents. Shortly before Typhoon Morakot, some people just had their new house built. The chief of the village, it was said, lost every piece of valuable treasure to his Rukai heritage. He still has not recovered from such loss. 

In just a few years, Rinari, especially the region of Kucapungane, has become a famous tourist spot with bed & breakfast service and tailored sightseeing or culture-learning package. Coming to terms with a new life and new home is obviously on the same plate with the desire to return. 

(Photo: Wutai on Provincial Highway 24)

Kudrengere (201 residents, Altitude: 271.8 m) 

Kabalelradhane (448 residents, Altitude: 672.1 m)

Wutai(823 residents, Altitude: 851.3 m)

With a total of 1,472 residents, these three villages comprise of the largest single Rukai administration in Wutai Township. It is almost the busiest area with a large number of visitors coming in cars or motorbikes throughout the year. 

In Kudrengere, there is the highest bridge in Taiwan; in Kabalelradhane, there is the most delicious fig jelly soup with green bean and millet dipped in lemonade; and in Wutai, one can visit the Queen of Sakura in her full blossom in winter. Of course, the Highway itself offers such a breathtaking scenery that a ride on it is already worth it. 

(Photo: Gu Ren-ren Bridge at the Entrance to Labuwan)

Labuwan (500 residents, Altitude: 468.7 m)

Labuwan is very difficult to reach. That Gu Ren-ren Bridge is only wide enough for one sedan manifests the distance between the village and the outside world. While such difficulty prevents an easy access, it promises beauty of tranquility in a verdant valley. 

The village is divided into two parts, Siao-shan (Lower Labuwan) and Tung-chuan (Upper Labuwan). Both are not too far apart, connected by a much wider and normal-looking bridge. 

In Tung-chuan especially, several jeeps are parked around the community square. I was told that they will take tourists to the most popular open-air hot spring by Hayou River. In the season, local Rukai jeep drivers and licensed river tracing guides can make up to millions of NTDs. Obviously, business is as hot as the spring. 

However, when it pours and waters run high, the road to Labuwan is often cut off and residents need to ride a simple transport cage or funicular home.

 (Photo: Wooden posts at the Entrance to Karamemedesane)

Karamemedesane (425 residents, Altitude: 480.4 m)

The last Rukai village I visited on September 2 was Karamemedesane. 

Like Labuwan, it is also divided into two parts, conveniently referred to as 'New Karamemedesane' and 'Old Karamemedesane'. However, unlike Labuwan, it is not as difficult to reach, although bad weather can also easily make it an island. In the attack of Typhoon Morakot, the entire village had to be evacuated with helicopters. One of the helicopters unfortunately crashed during its rescue mission, and thus resulted in even higher casualty. Some residents have also moved to the base of Changjhih Lily. 

Both Labuwan and Karamemedesane are situated on the right side of North Ailiao River while the others are on the left side. There might be an industrial road connecting the two, though I did not venture but returned to Provincial Highway 24 and took the Kudrengere-Karamemedesane Industrial Road. 

Wutai 霧台鄉

Kinulane 吉露部落（遷至長治百合永久屋基地）

Adiri 阿禮部落（遷至長治百合永久屋基地）

Kucapungane 好茶部落（遷至禮納里永久屋基地）

Kudrengere 谷川部落（部分遷至長治百合永久屋基地）

Kabalelradhane 神山部落

Wutai 霧台部落

Labuwan 大武部落

Karamemedesane 佳暮部落

Here I thank my company: Eleng (Rukai).