Gateway: Eleven Paiwan Villages in Mudan & Manju, Pingtung

On Saturday 30th of June I took a road trip to visit the indigenous villages in my hometown Sinevaudjan Township and the neighboring Manju Township, Pingtung County. 

The purpose of my trip is to initiate a personal project 'Gateway', in which I hope to visit the 746 indigenous villages of Taiwan in person, and take a photo of the gateway to each village as my witness. 

This region, better known as Lonckjouw in the early modern period, is home to indigenous peoples such as Paiwan, Amis, Makatao and Sqaro (the so-called Paiwanized Pinuyumayan). Nowadays, visitors can easily reach every village by following the loop sign put up by Kenting National Park. 

My loop was a combination of Provincial Highway 26, County Road 199, Country Road 199-A, County Road 200 and County 200-A. But for a personal 'tragedy' (I failed to activate MapMyDrive in advance, sigh...), I believe it would certainly have taken much less than six hours for me to enjoy the breathtaking views of three waters–Taiwan Strait, Pacific Ocean and Bashi Channel–in the midst of the peoples of the land. 

Eleven villages in total were covered: eight in Mudan (3,624 Paiwan residents and 413 Amis residents) and three in Manju (812 Paiwan residents). Most are Paiwan villages but Macaran whose inhabitants are predominantly Amis and Ride where a small group claims to be the descendants of Seqaro. 

My birthplace Pungudan is the third smallest among them all, being only lager than Parius and Ride in Manju Township. Kapanan tops the list with more than a thousand villagers, thanks to the fact that both Township Office and the Reservoir are located there.

Pungudan (my birthplace)

Households: 126

Residents: 372

Ethnicity: Paiwan

Really not the most impressive. Humble and plain. I believe it reflects the village's inferior status since its population (translating to vote number in democracy) is small, and most families are immigrants from elsewhere. 

Entrance to Sinevaudjan Township

This gateway is situated at the famous 1874 anti-Japanese battlefield Macacukes (meaning support or defense). In addition to traditional Paiwan totems such as pottery pot, langalj (wooden joint cup), hunter and his dog, there is also a line of sculptured Paiwan script. It reads, "Malevamen asu ivalain." Happy are we at your coming. Simply, welcome. 

Kapanan 

Households: 387

Residents: 1,003

Ethnicity: Paiwan

The largest Paiwan village in the region, with the township office, both elementary and junior high schools, a health center, Protestant and Catholic churches, a library, markets and several active local community associations. The construction of Mudan Reservoir in 1998 brought some fortune to the local as they sold (whether willingly or not) the land to the government. 

Land-snails crawling on the right-side of the monument are a local delicacy and my favorite, while the Pitaya fruit is a recent cash crop. 

Anteng (the seat of Mudan Reservoir)

Households: 203

Residents: 502

Ethnicity: Paiwan

My classmate (a local) said rice cultivation was first introduced here by her ancestors.

Sinevaudjan

Households: 214

Residents: 594

Ethnicity: Paiwan

Eponymous village. Sinevaudjan means where wild rattans are weeded out. It implies the hardship the local went through when they first attempted to settle there. Gradually not only did the people persevere, but they also grew so strong that they bore the brunt of Japanese invasion in 1874. The invasion is known as 'Mudan Incident' and has been widely studied by Japanese, Taiwanese and local Paiwan scholars. 

Peony flowers also grow abundantly in the region; hence, in Mandarin the place is known as 'Mudan' (penoy). In recent years, nevertheless, local administration is promoting another flower called Butterfly lily. 

Maljipa

Households: 180

Residents: 493

Ethnicity: Paiwan

The northernmost village in Sinevaudjan Township, it is actually easier to reach there via Provincial Road 9 (or South-Link Highway) and County Road 199 southbound. Presumably that was the route of past migration as  local families claim roots in the north. 

Besides, driving on the winding road connecting Sinevaudjan and Maljipa, visitors will also have crossed the southern section of Mt. Central Range and reached the east side of the island. 

Macaran 

Households: 188

Residents: 413

Ethnicity: Amis

The blue color alone would have betrayed Macaran's origin. Unlike other villages, the majority of inhabitants here are Amis, an indigenous group with a culture and lifestyle closely linked with the ocean. The famous Alangyi Trail is likely the people's migration route. Leaving their homeland in Hualien or Taitung hundred years ago, they finally found a haven by the side of Pacific Ocean. Alangyi Trail is also likely the route that led the Dutch to Taitung in 1633. 

Kuskus

Households: 231 

Residents: 660

Ethnicity: Paiwan

So-called the Ruby of the south, Kuskus sits deeply in the bosom of green mountains, which gives it a mysterious character. 

In the past Paiwan people were referred as 'Big Ear People' because most men and women adorned their ear punctures with coin, shell, bamboo or branch wood. 

The Paiwan of Kuskus and Sinevaudjan especially were feared for their bravery and battle skills. 

Draki

Households: 254

Residents: 642

Ethnicity: Paiwan

My maternal grandmother came from this village. It actually surprised me to know its actually the third largest village in Sinevaudjan! Currently, the Township Office is promoting Mt. Draki (465 m); it has a perfect view of the three international waters: Pacific Ocean, Bashe Channel and Taiwan Strait (east-south-west). 

Tjadukudukung

Households: 155

Residents: 418

Ethnicity: Paiwan 

Parius

Households: 86

Residents: 229

Ethnicity: Paiwan 

Both Parius and Tjadukudukung are in Manju Twonship. Parius, most well-known for the bay where the Rover Incident (1867) happened, guards the way to Kuskus, while Tjadukudukung sits at the foot of Draki. 

Ride

Households: 71

Residents: 165

Ethnicity: Paiwan / Seqaro

I did not see any gateway or monument standing at the entrance to Ride. In fact, I could not even recognize it as a Paiwan village nowadays; it's very different. In the eighteenth century, however, there was a strong indigenous village  at the foothill of  Mt. Jhulaosu, just to the south of Ride. It is believed that descendants of that strong village still live here. 

Finally in the rain I found a house, whose entrance decorated with typical symbols like pottery and hundred-pace snake is shouting out its Paiwan identity. "We are still here," it said.  

Later that day before sleep, I shared my road trip with mom. She's practically spent all her life in Lonckjouw (or Hengchun), but even she did not think there are Paiwan living in Ride. Then I told her what I found and learned from history. She is really surprised. History is always full of surprises. 

Mudan Township 牡丹鄉

Pungudan 大梅部落
Kapanan 石門部落
Anteng 安等部落
Sinevaudjan 牡丹部落
Maljipa 東源部落
Macaran 旭海部落
Kuskus 高士部落
Draki 四林部落

Manju Township 滿洲鄉

Tjadukudukung 長樂部落
Parius 八瑤部落
Ride 里德部落