746 is the number of indigenous villages officially ratified by Council of Indigenous Peoples (CIP) from 2010 until 2015. Entrances is a personal project that allows me to visit every village on the list.
In Taiwu Township, there are nine Paiwan villages under six tsuns (state administration unit). All of them can be reached by Pingtung County Highway 185 (aka Highway Along the Foothills); only Puljetji deep in the mountains needs another connection with Pingtung County Highway 106. The current Paiwan population in Taiwu is 5,654 according to the CIP ratification list.
Tjaranauma (990 residents)
Ludja (246 residents)
Tjaialev (99 residents)
These three villages belong to one tsun or the state administration unit of the lowest level, Wan-an Tsun.
The biggest village, Tjaranauma, is situated on the right bank of Wan-an River, while the smaller Ludja and Tjaialev are on the left.
A quite visit; the only surprise might be that long snake quickly passing in front of my car to the other side of the road. Snake is one of the most important totems for the Paiwan. Perhaps it was a sign of bliss?
Masisi (229 residents)
Kaviyangan (798 residents)
Masisi and Kaviyangan are considered one tsun, Jia-ping Tsun. However, whether in facility, fame or scale, the two are not equal.
The village of Kaviyangan is very organized and well-decorated. It is the seat of Taiwu Township Office and other state agencies.
The hand at its entrance reminds the lost art/tradition of hand tattoos (vencik na lima) of Paiwan young women. Now we still find some elders wearing hand tattoos. Though the lines are fading away, their pride stays strong.
Ulaljuc (935 residents)
This Ulaljuc is another base of Permanent Housing Program like Rinari in Majia Township and Changjhih Lily in Changjhih Township. Residents here are from the old Ulaljuc in the mountains. Move to safety is the
Also like the Paiwan or Rukai in Rinari and Changjhih Lily, some people still regularly return to the old Ulaljuc. Besides taking care of necessary farm work, they are mostly occupied by growing coffee. In fact, coffee plantation tourism is emerging here.
Ulaljuc is indeed growing into a key region for Paiwan coffee.
Qapedang (1,181 residents)
When I reached Qapedang, it started to rain cats and dogs. There was not much I could do but sit and wait in the car since driving in the rain in the village or into the mountains for another village would be too silly.
Qapedang is the largest village in Taiwu.
Puljetji (456 residents)
Only later did I know a better way to visit Puljetji is by crossing the bridge from Tjuwaqau of Laiyi Township. But for this moment, I did not know.
Following Google, I took Pingtung County Highway 106, which is really a winding narrow road in the mountains and started for Puljetji despite of the pouring rain. I must see the village because by translating the book The Catalog of Hand-Tattoos in the Paiwan Village of Puljeti (2014) a few years ago, I know here is a treasure trove for the lost art of hand tattoo of Paiwan.
Alas, how beautiful is this village! Never mind the strange terrain, nor the crying sky. Indeed, it can be inconvenient to live so far away from urban areas. Yet how refreshing and liberating as well?! The cold air filled my lungs.
Piyuma (720 residents)
Perhaps the mountains didn't want me to leave for I for no reason got totally lost on my way to Piyuma.
Instead of driving to Piyuma's current location just by Pingtung County Highway 185, I was driving towards to the old Piyuma without knowing it. It was only when I could not drive further but had to walk that I realized perhaps I was wrong. It would get dark soon. Just when panic started to get me, I heard a dog barking. I followed him and found a hut, the dog and a man; he was surprised to find me there and kindly showed me the right way.
So I finally got to Piyuma and saw the wood carving of an elder playing nose flute. Curiously, this Paiwan village has a name so similar to another indigenous group in the east, Puyuma. Why is that? I will find that out later. Hope I won't get lost ever again.
Taiwu Township 泰武鄉
Tjaranauma 萬安部落
Ludja 安平部落
Tjaialev 達里部落
Masisi 馬仕部落
Kaviyangan 佳平部落
Ulaljuc 泰武（吾拉魯茲）部落
Qapedang 武潭部落
Puljetji 佳興部落
Piyuma 平和部落
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