Gateway: Ten Paiwan Villages in Majia, Pingtung

Gateway project completed 5.9% (44 out of 746).

746 is the number of indigenous villages officially ratified by Council of Indigenous Peoples (CIP) from 2010 until 2015. Entrances is a personal project which brings me to every village on the ratification list.

On the map, Majia Township is  the smallest among the eight indigenous townships in Pingtung Taiwan. Yet, it is home to big state projects including Taiwan Indigenous Culture Park and Rinari Permanent Housing Program as well as a large Paiwan population at the number of 7,138 residents living in ten Paiwan villages under six tsuns (administration unit). 

(Photo: Makazayazaya at Rinari)

Paljur (331 residents; Altitude: 225.4 m)
Makazayazaya (331 residents; Altitude: 225.4 m)
Tjanavakung (331 residents; Altitude: 225.4 m)

After Typhoon Morakot struck in August 2009, the original villages were considered too dangerous to live in; thus, residents were required by the state to relocate at the Base of Rinari for the sake of security. There, both Paljur and Tjanavakung were merged with Makazayazaya regardless of previous relationships. Confusion and conflict are expected.

(Photo: Monument at the entrance to Vecekadan)

Zayazayan (585 residents; Altitude: 94.3 m)
Vecekadan (982 residents; Altitude: 87.3 m)
Laulauzan (776 residents; Altitude: 77.1 m)

While other Paiwan villages of Majia Township line up on Pingtung County Highway 185 (a.k.a Highway Along the Foothills), Zayazayan, Vecekadan and Laulauzan (from north to south), grouped under a single San-ho tsun, are located closer to the western plains on Pingtung County Highway 37.

Proximity to flatness and multiple lines of traffic promises convenience and swift exchange with other ethnic groups. Such opportunity draws a large cohort of Paiwan to these communities. However, what convenience sacrifices is a character that's missing and can only be redeemed by consciously hard work.

(Photo: Metal Sculpture by the Community Center of Payuwan)

Payuwan (535 residents; Altitude: 56.5 m)

Standing by Payuwan Community Center, this metal art work is rather different from the usual monuments decorating any indigenous village. Its creator is Paceke 杜寒菘, an indigenous illustrator from the Rukai village of Kucapungane now at Rinari.

A hooded hunter, wearing a silver-coin belt and holding a staff in his hand, is walking with his head high next to his dog. While the motif of hunting is similar, there is nothing similar to the sentiment this work elicits, especially at nightfall. It is a bit spooky.

I wonder why it's here. The old Payuwan village in the mountains was the source of the people, therefore the eponym. Now standing at the Payuwan on Pingtung County Highway 185, I am thinking what is spooky about the future of Paiwan?

  (Photo: Monument at the entrance to Kazangiljan)

Kazangiljan (1,050 residents; Altitude: 81.8 m)

Kazangiljan is larger than Makazayazaya and Payuwan combined! Also on Pingtung County Highway 185 at the foot of hills, likely the village claims a large population since leaving the old village sixty years ago also as a result of convenience and opportunity.

The hunters here are more typical than the one at Payuwan.

(Photo: Monument at the entrance to Wakaba)

Wakaba (1,224 residents; Altitude: 95.3 m)

Even larger than Kazangiljan, Wakaba probably attracts its Paiwan population throughout with the same promise of conveniences and better life.

Besides, Wakaba is also known for several tourist attractions such as waterfall and water park. A famous song known to all Paiwan and increasingly to other people in Taiwan, "Wakaba Love Song", also owes its creation to the village.

(Photo: Monument at the entrance to Masilid)

Masilid (993 residents; Altitude: 135.6 m)

The last village in Majia Township to be reached via Pintung County Highway 185 is Masilid. It borders Sandimen Township to the north.

The seat of Taiwan Indigenous Culture Park is here, so is the most recent sensation of Glazed Bead Bridge. Besides, Majia Township Office and other state facilities are also found here.

I cannot help but find the entrance monument exceptionally un-Paiwan. "Happy New Year; Carry the Torch and Inspire the Future; Masilid, blessed by Eagles;Welcome." In fact, the Majia Township nowadays is stripped off much of its original character by location and relocation. It now behooves the residents to rebuild it. May Cemas bless Majia.


Majia Township 瑪家鄉

Paljur  白露部落（遷至禮納里永久屋基地）
Makazayazaya  瑪家部落（遷至禮納里永久屋基地）
Tjanavakung  達那瓦功部落（遷至禮納里永久屋基地）
Zayazayan  玉泉部落
Vecekadan  三和部落
Laulauzan  美園部落
Payuwan 排灣部落
Kazangiljan  佳義部落
Wakaba  涼山部落
Masilid 北葉部落

Here I thank my company: Eleng (Rukai).