746 is the number of indigenous villages officially ratified by Council of Indigenous Peoples (CIP) from 2010 until 2015. Gateway is a personal project for me to visit every village on the list.
Chunre is the last piece of puzzle to the completion of my visit to the nine indigenous townships in Pingtung.
Most villages are reachable by Pingtung County Highway 185 (aka Highway Along the Foothills). The only exception is Seveng, which requires a detour on the winding Pingtung County Highway 144-1 due to its location closer to the bosom of Central Mount Range.
Rains and typhoons often cut the road and leave the village an isle in the green world, as what happened just recently. Yet, since it's the village where my family lja Palemeq originated, I have to visit see it again despite of challenges.
Lalekeleke (566 residents; Altitude: 121.2 m)
In 2017 Indigenous Peoples' Cultural Foundation (IPCF) released a mini-TV drama called 'Pucevuljan' (Where the Smoke Starts), which tells the heritage of Paiwan medicine woman and the challenge of its continuance. The story originates from here, so as CEO of IPCF of the time, I visited the village and thanked the people for their kind assistance in every way.
Kinayiman (691 residents; Altitude: 128.2 m)
Sitting in the middle of Lalekeleke and Tjuvecekadan is another medium size village, Kinayiman.
Tjuvecekadan (1,065 residents)
Tjuvecekadan is now really more famous for its old village than for its current location, which is itself not so insignificant either.
Residents moved here decades ago, leaving traditional slate-stone houses in the old village. Yet, as more and more people are returning to rebuild houses, the villages attract attention as well as tourists. Besides, the old Tjuvecekadan is a chosen site for the consideration of UNESCO Heritage List, hence increasing its fame and popularity.
On the day of my visit, I purchased a pair of earrings and a bag of dry smoked taro, a Paiwan-style traditional nibbles. I miss the taste so much! How happy!
Kasuga (1,117 residents; 52.8 m)
Kasuga is the largest village in Chunre, the seat of Chunre Township Office and other important institutions.
The inscription on the entrance monument says, "maleva mangetjez mun". Basically, it is a translation of 'Welcome' to Paiwan. Literally, it goes, "happy come you".
Another stone sculpture in the village installed by the Kasuga Community Development Association has the Chinese inscription of 'Love'. Also another mark of welcome to the visitors.
Kuabar (800 residents; 41.2 m)
Kuabar is next to Kasuga. A medium to large size village, its direction is the first for a visitor driving northbound on Provincial Highway 1 to encounter. Also relatively easy to reach.
Seveng (391 residents; Altitude: 414.5 m)
That the only road to Seveng, Pingtung County Highway 114-1, was cut off by heavy rain in recent days made me postpone the visit to Chunre. What was to me a delay in the schedule is unfortunately a common piece of inconvenience for the residents here.
My grandfather on father's side came from this village, which makes it the origin of my surname "Palemeq" that I got from my father, who got it from his father. Walking in the village, I could not identify the location of my "Palemeq" before migration. Only nostalgia accompanied my walk.
Chunre Township 春日鄉
Lalekeleke 力里部落
Kinayiman 歸崇部落
Tjuvecekadan 七佳部落
Kasuga 春日部落
Kuabar 古華部落
Seveng 士文部落
Here I thank my company: Lisin (Amis) and Panyanen (Amis/Tao).
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